Matthew McFetridge

Mavrud Grape

Considered the most valued grape varietal in Bulgaria, Mavrud is quickly gaining international recognition too. These wines are generally admired for its tannin structure, high complexity and intense dark fruit flavors. With a unique and fascinating history – and an even more interesting potential future – Mavrud is a grape to keep a close eye on!

Mavrud has been around in Bulgaria since the very beginning – originating in the western regions. The legend surrounding the name of the varietal has a few variations – with the underlying story being rather consistent. In the 9^th century when alcohol was strictly forbidden, an old woman secretly kept a vine in her backyard, so she could give fermented grapes to her son. Years later, the ruler met this woman’s son, who was strong, brave and bold. The ruler was determined to meet this brave man’s mother. When the ruler found that the man’s strength was due to the wine (according to his mother) the ruler didn’t prosecute her for the vine she kept. Instead, he named the vine after her son – Mavrud.

Recent History

In 1814 there was a devastating demolishment of vines – taking out almost all vines, but the Mavrud grape remained. This proved to the locals that the varietal was to be cherished – which is a belief still instilled the most Bulgarians. This is seen in the fact that Bulgarians tend to search the ends of the earth for wines that contain this varietal.

Bulgaria’s wine history has been rather touch-and-go – but they have managed to stabilize and strengthen their industry quite rapidly. Prior to the 1990’s, Bulgaria’s entire wine industry was controlled by the Soviets, with all the wine being exported to either Russia – or kept in Bulgaria. The wine quality was also extremely low, with cheap and cheerful being the prominent aspect.

From the Shadows to the Present

When socialism came to an end, Bulgaria was able to have privately-owned land – which saw the beginning of quality wine being produced. In the last two decades, Bulgaria has massively improved their quality production – with international consumers amazed at the value and premium wines produced. Much of the success of these wines has to do with the old vines in Bulgaria; their traditional styles combined with modern technology and the massive investments from international onlookers.

The wine industry’s aim is to completely shift Bulgaria’s wines from being mass-produced, to premium wines. With this, their aim is to become leaders in export again – but this time, to the west. This has already proven to be a successful goal – since the reviews from international consumers have been spectacular. Bulgaria has managed to find just the right balance between old-school and new-world, while keeping the wines at a reasonable price.  With Bulgaria’s unique cultivars, wine consumers everywhere are building a curiosity around these wines – allowing a record-high of 200 million liters of wine to be produced and exported in 2013.

With grape varietals like, Pamid, Kadaraka, Misket, Dimyat and the honorable Mavrud, you can expect interesting and spectacular wines to come from Bulgaria in the coming years.

Chardonnay is a varietal much loved by the US and the world over – in fact, Chardonnay is the most planted varietal in the world and the leading one in America from the Vinifera grapes.  Each AVA region in the US has a different style in which they produce their Chardonnay. Some styles are full, heavy and intensely wooded, where some regions lean more towards a fresher, fruitier, unwooded style.  In California, the famous Napa Valley has been known to produce some excellent Chardonnays in both these styles. Here are some Wineries that show interesting diversity with its Chardonnays.

Alpha Omega

Alpha Omega Winery was only founded very recently – in 2006 – but has managed to create quite the name for themselves; producing wines of peerless quality. What makes these wines unique, is the combination of modern, as well as old-world techniques. This hand-crafted brand is dedicated to uniqueness and exploring new and exciting ways of producing great wine. When it comes to their Chardonnays, they truly shine. Producing both an oaked and an unoaked Chardonnay, Alpha Omega created major waves at the International Chardonnay Symposium in 2016 for their 2013 Chardonnay Reserve. With only a few hundred bottles produced, this wine is intensely full and rich with exceptional citrus fruit flavor and minerality. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and is beautifully balanced – truly highlighting the quality this estate can produce.

Harken Wines

With some skilled and experienced winemakers involved at Harken, it is no wonder that the wine produced here has managed to gain quite the reputation. With the focus on creating old-school, heavy Chardonnays, Harken has received accolade after accolade for their spectacular Chardonnay. Their 2016 Vintage managed to score 87 points with the Wine Enthusiast Magazine, 90 points with Blue Lifestyle tasting panel and silver medals with both the Citrus Challenge and Los Angeles International Wine Competition.  This 2016 Chardonnay has beautiful layers of fruit and oak flavors with the complexity lingering on your palate. Harken’s previous Chardonnay vintages prove just as successful, also managing to score sterling points and receive medals for the value and brilliance of their wine. Their wine is generally considered easy drinking, complex with a profound balance of fruit and oak.

The Withers

The Withers wine was initially not created to be released to the public, but rather to drink among friends and family. However, due to the great love and appreciation for the wine, the wine was encouraged to be released commercially.  The basis of all the wine released under the Withers label, they produce wines that are consistently riveting while constantly striving for greatness, and staying true to nature. Unlike Harken’s or Alpha Omega’s Chardonnay, the Chardonnays produced by The Withers are crisp and have clear minerality. Their Chardonnay is wooded but is more in the style of the Chablis region – leaving an elegant, velvety texture in your mouth. The 2016 Chardonnay is part of why The Withers Winery was declared as part of the Top 100 Wineries by the Wine and Spirits Magazine.

2016 Proved to be an exceptional year for most producers across the region – and in return, some extraordinary wines are right at our fingertips. These three producers are only a handful of the many but lesser known Napa producers that have managed to do great things with Chardonnay – and the future seems to hold only more great potential for more exquisite wines to come from Napa ranging from the big and known players down to the up and coming.

Oregon Crab

In 2009, a school in Oregon succeeded in lobbying for and naming-what’s essentially Washington grown; as their state crustacean. School children in West Linn primary had the foresight to see that this species, well adopted to Oregon’s unique coast, could be of importance to the Oregonian economy.

Oregon could easily take the prize for most unique and interesting state. There is so much to list; record holder for most ghost towns in the US, a wonderous picturesque landscape, a melting pot of diverse cultures, and a deep pioneering spirit led on with the motto ‘Keep Oregon Weird’.

Oregon’s unique waterways are well provided thus the quality in seafood can be seen. Fishing miles cover over 700 miles of cool undeveloped coast from Astoria to Brookings. Local seafood veterans help you catch your own. Not to worry, minimal gear is required.

The Dungeness crab are famous for their sweet flavor regardless of where harvested on the Oregonian coast.

The Wine Pairing

One cannot speak of Oregon and fail to mention its phenomenal Pinot Noir which accounts for up to two- thirds of its overall production but it is not because of this that we think of pairing it with Dungeness Crab. Oregon’s production is no small feat for the sixth largest US producer of wine in the United States. Boasting seven major growing regions and 18 designated American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), Pinot Noir accounts for 15,500 acres in vineyards ranging between 200 to 800 feet grown on South and Southeast facing slopes.

Rich with varying terroir ranging from volcanic top soils to marine sedimentary soil, Oregon Pinot Noir lends itself to different yet memorable interpretations. You are sure to find wines that show emphasis on fruit, soft floral aromas, hints of spice and soft smooth tannin. Others with dusty, dry notes emphasizing earthy notes and black fruit with high acidity.

The complexities of style in Oregon Pinot Noir made a memorable mark in wine history; having been judged favorably against Burgundy in the 1979 wine Olympics in Paris. Since, wine has been made by most on a Burgundian template and the highest compliment you can pay a wine maker is to remark of their similarity.

You could make an adventure of it! Embarking on a tasting spree spanning the eighteen designations. None, would make a better pairing than the reddish-brown, white tipped Dungeness crab with a dab of butter, light chili aioli and a sweet compote on the side, a fresh Dungeness Crab grilled with most Oregon Pinot Noirs can make for a great relaxing  afternoon treat.

Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero is known to be one of the most important wine regions in Castilla y Leon which is located in northern Spain. Its reputation is primarily due to the high quality of red wines produced predominantly from Tempranillo grapes with some of the best examples renowned throughout the wine world. The quality of the regions red wines wouldn’t be as it is without these grapes.

Ribera del Duero was not awarded Denominación de Origen status until 1982 which is substantially late considering the vast history of the winemaking region centered on the leading local producer, Bodegas Vega Sicilia (founded in 1864). The quality of Vega Sicilia inspired the move but not put forward by the legendary winemaking estate. Robert Parker, who took a liking to Pesquera and Ribera del Duero, was the one instrumental in the move as you could expect this not only put Ribera del Duero and Pesquera on the map but launched them to world stardom.  The wine produced here is considered so good that it is often used for royal events within the country, with its Unico wine regarded as the greatest of Spain.

Focusing on red

Award-winning brands such as Vega Sicilia and Tinto Pesquera saw success like other wines have not in the region; thus started a small revolution turning local producers away from bulk rosé and co-operatives. The producers turned their eyes to quality reds as a great alternative. Other prominent producers such as Dominio de Pingus and Emilio Moro also started to create esteemed wines.

Ribera del Duero is now almost entirely devoted to the production of red wine with Tempranillo (known locally as Tinto Fino), as the most commonly planted grape variety. The true quality of the reds now produced here is incredible. The top examples will be deeply colored, with firm tannin structure to create complex aromas of dark fruit and are known to develop beautifully over time, increasing in complexity over the years. Digging deep into the roots of red winemaking and having almost complete focus on the grapes required is what has been needed and subsequently what has been done to achieve this. However, still today not all wines produced in the region are red.

Denominación de Origen regulations stipulate that Tempranillo must make up a minimum of 75 percent of all vinos tintos, meaning red wines. There is still a moderate level of whites’ produced, though the balance is usually made up of mostly Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vega Sicilia introduced these varieties over one hundred years ago and have since continued to use them to this day.

Climate impacts

Ribera del Duero is located in the Iberian Peninsula at around 2800 feet above sea level. The name is Spanish for “bank of the Duero” due to the river dividing the region. This river is vital in supplying the water that the vineyards need to thrive. The region follows this course of the Duero river for around 115km upstream from Valladolid before then traversing into Portuguese growing areas.

During the day the region bakes in high temperatures with the nights cooling down. Such a divide in temperatures leads the climate to assist in offering the optimum accumulation of aromas, flavors, and complexities within the grapes. The soils are credited alongside the waters and temperatures for adding complexity to the grapes and character; this originates from the variation in the soil comprising of layers of limestone, marl, and chalk.

Aging

Aging requirements match that of the Rioja denomination, Crianza red wines must be matured for at least two years, 12 months of which must be in oak. There are plenty of variations in times spent in oak and developing, including Reserva wines which require three years aging, one must be in oak. Finally, Gran Reserva wines have to be aged for five years of which two should be in oak before they can be released. This specific aging requirement offers character to form within the wine and from the oak of the barrels used.

The wines are classified as much for their longevity as they are for grape quality following the above process Ribera del Duero has proven to produce some very well-aging wines. With combination of exceptional grape quality and very well aged wines, Ribera del Duero has seen massive success for its wines produced. This has been the case since the 19th century but with the recent (1982) DO classification, it has seen this popularity sore.

Culture

In the early 80’s when the classification was given, only 14 estates existed in Ribera del Duero; now there are more than 300, an incredibly substantial increase in such a short space of time. Whether the expansion to this extent is a good thing is debatable, however, what is known is that the quality of some of the reds leaving these estates is of exceptional quality, with intriguing definition and finesse. On the other hand, dubious oaks used on some productions have obscured some of the purity from the fruit lending itself to lesser quality wine.

In a surprising yet remarkable move by the Alvarez family, founding the Alion estate (a younger brother of Vega), this has laid the foundations for a more sophisticated approach culminated in an entirely new and modern Ribera estate. Setting new standards in the industry with advanced technology, all while keeping the legendary status of Vega out of the picture in an estate of its own.

One thing is for sure, and there is nothing dubious about it, Ribera reds are and as far as most people are concerned always will be the perfect accompaniment to the region’s signature dish of lechal al horno, meaning, lamb slow-roasted in an open oven, even the thought makes the mouth water. The combination which is a must-try gives French alternatives a run for their money.

The Rhône Valley is arguably one of the most admired regions of the world.  Although it is classified as a single region, the difference between the northern and southern part is immense. The reason for these differences is largely due to the terroir, and specifically the major differences in the soil types in these areas.

Up North

In Northern Rhône, the soil mainly consists of different groups of granite.  In areas like Condrieu, for instance, the soil is composed of granite and clay. The clay ensures the grapes ripen at a slower rate which adds acidity to the grapes. However, the granite acts as a counterpart in that it lowers acidity. Therefore, the combination of these soils ensures there is a perfect balance of acidity and tannin in the grapes.

Another example would be Hermitage  where there are sections of granite soils with clay and limestone. These wines tend to be a complete contrast to those of the sandy soils – with full-bodied, tannic characteristics found in the wine typically.

Some have stated that regions in France with high limestone content are considered to be a better overall sol base for wines. The limestone adds nutrients to the vines and increases the acidity substantially. The limestone works well throughout different terroirs since it allows water to drain, but also manages to retain heat in cooler climates.

Down South

In the south of Rhone, with the warmer climate and difference in soil, wines from this region are generally sweeter and fruitier. The soils in the south are much more diverse than those in the north.

Calcareous soil, commonly found in the south, plays a large role in the success of the famous Rhône grape blends. The calcareous soil is a combination of different sub-soils but is generally an alkaline base. This boosts the production of acidity in the grapes and forces roots deep into the ground in search of nutrients. Deeper roots often result in higher quality grapes.

Another major soil composition of Southern Rhône is the deposit of alluvial soil. The Alluvial soil consists of organic debris that is often washed onto vineyards by running water. Older alluvial deposits are much lower in nutrients than newer deposits and they are considered one of the best soils for cultivation. The soil results in smaller grapes which boosts the intensity and concentration of the flavors dramatically.

In Châteauneuf-du-Pape particularly, gravel is commonly found. Considering the gravel contains no nutrients, the vine roots are forced deep into the ground in search of nutrients, as with calcareous soil.  This essentially leads to wines that are bold and extremely high quality.

Ultimately, making good wine starts in the vineyards. The role soil plays in the production of quality wines obviously is critical and has a huge influence and will affect the wine that it develops and their ability to age in general.

Rioja and its sub-regions

Rioja is a wine region located in Spain, with DOCa status. Rioja is subdivided into three regions, Rioja Alta, Rioja Oriental, and Rioja Alavesa. The majority of wines to leave Rioja have a blended mix from all three regions; however, there is more commonly a growth of wines distinctly from each subregion alone. These single-zone wines have their individuality dependent on the climate, soils and winemaking processes used in each region.

Although Rioja has its three sub-regions, the wines produced and grapes they are produced from are relatively similar across all three as this is regulated by the country DOC system. Usually these wines were created using various grape varieties; however, it has become more common to see them produced as monovarietal wine. The authorized proportional variations are as followed.

Red wines must be made of at least 95% Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta. White wines must be made up of Viura, Garnacha Blanca, Malvasia, Maturana Blanca Tempranillo Blanco, and Turruntes (should not be confused with the Torrontés grape which is not genetically the same at all). Finally, Rosé wines must be made of a minimum 25% Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta. All three regions must follow these specifications; however, as we will explain later, foreign varieties have since been introduced.

Rioja Alta

Rioja Alta (the western part of Rioja) takes advantage of higher altitudes where its vineyards are sited. In this part of the region, soils have iron and alluvial elements and a higher concentration of clay; the lands also have less limestone than its neighboring counterpart. This combination which makes up the soils within the vineyard have helped produce wines that are well appreciated and regarded as elegant with acidity that is balanced, and not overwhelming on the pallet.

Rioja Alavesa

Rioja Alavesa consists of two separate pieces of land joining with Rioja Alta, due to this proximity, the geographic benefits are similar such as the DOC zone itself. Vineyards are located at a similar altitude to Rioja Alta, and so the wines often have similarities. Similar elegance, but also they show more acidity. This will be primarily be due to each sub-region having its macroclimate which varies slightly to one another, even in geographical proximity.

Rioja Oriental

Rioja Oriental (previously known as Rioja Baja) is the eastern section of Rioja and so offers an altogether different variety of wine than the previous two regions. The climate in Rioja Oriental relies more on the Mediterranean and so is dryer and warmer than the other two regions, emphasis on this region is on Garnacha. Wines from this region are known to be fuller-bodied than the other two regions usually with richer flavors and aromas.

Traditional and modern varieties

The regulating council for the DOC Rioja (founded in 1925) has authorized seven varieties to be produced in the region. This consists of four red varieties and three white. Red varieties include Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo, and Graciano. White varieties include Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca.

Recently (in 2007) the council decided to authorize one new red variety and six new white varieties, these can only be substituted and not used alongside existing varieties. The new authorizations include Maturana Tinta red the only red to be added. The white varieties include Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Turruntes, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. To do this, the council had to make an amendment to the regulation which was approved in 2004 and subsequently amended again.

It is interesting to see foreign varieties introduced into the regions and to control this the regulating maintains that these varieties (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo) cannot make up the majority volume of the finalized wine. Alternatively, autochthonous varieties do not have a set limit as to the quantity in the end product. Foreign grapes were introduced to increase the region’s competitiveness in the international market, while the incorporation of new autochthonous grapes was used to recover Rioja’s viticultural heritage. The council’s plan seems on the face of it to have worked, and the popularity of the region’s wines has increased since the introduction of the new grapes in 2007.

Viticulture and production

Grape harvest is done in the month of October; the harvest is restricted to 6500kg per ha for reds and 9000kg per ha for white wines; this is to ensure the highest standards are kept. The pruning consists of forming the stump with three arms and two thumbs in each arm. Furthermore, each thumb will have two buds from which the shoots will sprout.

The production follows the standards mentioned at the top of this article; however, the actual process of the production is different for both reds and whites. There are two production methods for red, the one with carbonic maceration and the other where the stem of the cluster is removed before fermentation. White wine production consists entirely of the grape passing to the drainer, the skins are removed, and the grape juice enters the tank for fermentation.

A true Spanish jewel

Rioja is best known for berry-scented and barrel-aged wines from the grapes It can be argued this is Spain’s top wine region, and many traditionalist will still say this. With its only real rival coming from Ribera del Duero, Priorat and still Jerez to a lesser extent, there’s certainty  the quality of wine you can enjoy from these three incredible famous regions of Rioja. In 2017 vineyard area was said to be just under 65,000 hectares with over 90% of that exclusively growing red grape varieties, this, in turn, creates a vast certified production of a quarter of a billion liters for the year. The vastness of this area is astonishing and proof that quantity and quality can work hand in hand.

Tokaji Essencia – or commonly known throughout history – the wines of the kings.
Tokaji is considered the rarest and richest wine in Hungary and has a long, intricate and popular wine history since its very beginning.

So what is about this wine that makes it so unique and admired?

Tokaji Essencia is an immensely sweet wine, specifically from the region of Tokaji, Hungary on the North-eastern most part of the country. Although many countries have mimicked the wine, the standard, and methods are almost exclusive to this area. The grapes used in Essencia are Aszu berries’ free run juice. The grapes are often handpicked to ensure only the best are used in production. The focal point of the grapes is the development of noble rot, which can push the residual sugar up to 85% and leaving the fermentation process to last anything from 2 to 8 years. After fermentation and bottling, this wine can last for centuries. This truly makes this wine incredibly intricate, unique and loved among many.

The appreciation for this wine was first evident in the 1700’s when the first ever appellation system created was specifically created for this wine. The system classified the wine into first, second and third class according to soil, sun and noble rot of the vines. This appellation system was founded more than 100 years before the system in Bordeaux.

Other than that, throughout history in sections across the globe, the mention of this wine was documented by authors, musicians, monarchs, and philosophers. Since sugar and alcohol were such high commodities – especially in France – these wines were like liquid gold to most people throughout history. In the centuries to follow, Hungary became a hugely popular destination with monarchs all over the world in search of this wine. And it is with good reason that this wine was so sought after.

Modern-day Essencia tends to be complex beyond comprehension. The liquid is thick with common aromas of honey, citrus, blossoms, and peach. What captures most consumers are the layers of apricot, caramel, and orange flavors that linger on the palate. Because of the sweetness of the wine, it is often only consumed in small amounts (a tablespoon at most.) In fact, it is commonly served in a crystal spoon.  The crystal spoon is a significant expression of the wine’s rarity and status. One might be surprised that often they will only have 2% alcohol yet with perfect balance able to live so long.

With the production of Essencia, only a few thousand bottles of each vintage are produced and released and it may only be a few vintages every decade that are able to produce it. The wine did suffer in the 20^th century largely due to the communist regime that lasted well into the 1990’s and inhibited private producers and prevented the exportation of these wines. Only in recent years did the world get to experience the magic of this wine with its revival in quality and exposure on the world stage..

Essencia is often served alongside desserts that are slightly more savory to balance out the sweetness of the wine but one can argue that this wine should be dessert on to itself and thus does not need an accompaniment. Although the wine has a hefty price on it, most would agree that it is a price worth paying for the extraordinary experience that lays in the crystal spoon. With a long and ever-prestigious history, this wine should be something tried at least once in a lifetime.